Crook Type 3 is a transformed version of Crook, the Cinelli Mash I built up and rode on Aids Lifecycle 9, from SF to LA. The concept was simple, and absurd: after completing the 570 mile ride (if successful, which it was) I would swap out the gray frame that made that journey for the limited edition green/ white variant, celebrating the achievement. You can read about the build process for Crook Type 3 here. Suffice to say, I kept the bottom end from the original Crook, and replaced the top end, going with a silver dip theme above the frame line.

Cinelli Mash 09 Limited Edition Green/White Adidas-inspired variant
SRAM Courier 300 Cranks (48/165)
Shimano A520 pedals
Custom wheelset: Soma hubs laced to H+Son 43s
Sugino Track Cog system (17) (Currently 75 inchgear)
SRAM single chain
Dia Compe brake/ carbon fiber cable housing
Paul Comp cross lever, silver
Titanium spacers
Columbus headset and seatpost clamp
Thomson Elite post, silver
Thomson X2 stem, silver
Nitto RB-021 compact bullhorns
VO elkhide wrap
crankbolt wrap caps (!)
Brooks Swallow saddle, honey
Thomson stem cap
Continental Gatorskin Hardshells 25c
Awesomeness

Here’s the build in the wild…

Note the Paul Comp cross lever. That was a hard find, with a deceptively simple solution: Order direct from Paul Comp…
The elkhide is still stretching and getting comfy but it’s gorgeous. I miss gel padding, though. Crank bolts for bar ends. HA!

The gold hub works nicely with the color scheme, which was fortuitous. I’ll eventually have a brass bell on the front end too.

Sneaky inclusion of my Three-Pin rider logo under the chainring, for science.

On Crook 1.0 there was a quote here: ‘by hook or by crook’ which was my inspirational mantra for getting through ALC on a fixed-gear. Now that that was done, I elected to retire it, moving the bike name from the head tube to the usual position here. The cog decal moved from seatpost to seat stay. Oh, and there will be a pinup girl on the nose, it’s just not done. The other missing decals are a Type 3 lettering piece for the name, and a vinyl of our ALC logo used on our ride shirts.

Some adjustments will follow, in seat height and stem. But so far, it’s a greeeaaaaat rahde!

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Related posts:

1. Bike Build Process Log: Crook Type 3 Conversion
2. Team Lope Bike Bio: Crook
3. Friends of Team Lope: Team Hype out of LA

As you have seen from previous posts, Crook was my Cinelli Mash fixie build, which had an expressed purpose: it was my ride for Aids Lifecycle. When I bought and built it, my vision was just to build the fixie I could do the MOST on… the longest days, the best climbs, the most agility, etc. So, it was done up with road drops, ridden for a few months before the ride (about 400 miles) and then on ALC 9 from SF to LA (another 570 miles)…

But something changed, along that preparation period before ALC. I found my initial rejection of the green limited edition version of this frame turning from dislike to interest. I couldn’t shake it. And then I had the idea: ride the gray ghost to LA, then have a metamorphosis to the green. So I took a risk on the green frame, site unseen, and ordered it before I left.

My initial plan was to come home, strip the bike, assemble the new one, then ride up to the city and meet Lung later that week with the surprise build. I had kept my plan a secret. The frame was shipped to my office while we were on the ride. All was well.

Until I got it home the day after we returned. The frame itself was gorgeous. The color is indescribable, and no pics do it justice. But the fork had carbon damage at the crown, painted over by the factory. Unacceptable! So I had to wait several weeks to get this resolved through my guys at City Grounds (zack is awesome, I say) and an understaffed Cinelli US crew. Ultimately, I got the replacement fork, and discovered the crown race was missing. We got that sorted, and I received the race in the mail last Friday, just in time to finish the build before Lung would arrive that Sunday for a birthday ride. The build was done from the back forward, but the front end was waiting on that race.

The ride is a dream, and you can see the Bio of the bike here.

Below are my process pics from the conversion, which involved using the original Crook bottom end, and a new top end.

:::

Unfortunately, the photos of the frame unboxing and the back end assembly were largely lost to a bad SD card. However, imagine me pulling a brilliant frame from the box and squeeing. The green is this iridescent color… not quite flaked, but shimmery. And more importantly, it’s a warm green, not a cold green. It’s paired with a creamy opaque white, a look I’ve always loved, going back to my one-time plans to white-paint-dip a stained-wood raw coffee table top for a project years ago. I love that look.

First, the original Crook was stripped to the bones, for sale to a fellow who was heading to San Diego fixed in a pursuit of folly similar to our fixed-gear Aids Lifecycle endeavors. How’s THAT for synchronicity! Last shot of Crook 1.0′s frame.

While waiting for the fork situation to be resolved, I dragged everything up to the deck for the extrusion shot (using the damaged fork, because hey.) and then decided to do the back end build work up there, while simultaneously BBQing and hanging out with wee Z. Here’s proof.

Here’s a close-up of that damage to the fork. Not a MASSIVE deal, but the concern I had was two-fold: one, the top surface of the crown is unpainted, so it’s visible in the gap between the frame and fork. This would be more obvious as a result. And two, it’s not like it was a sealed defect. That’s the EDGE of the paint. It’ll fray.

That was never fully resolved at the time of this writing. My boys at City Grounds took up the effort in dealing with Cinelli on that front, as weeks had gone by without any fruitful response from the manufacturer. It will be an argument over manufacturing damage vs shop damage. I believe manufacturing. In the meantime, as these weeks went by, my Crook parts hanging on the bikeBasement pegboards like those trophy skulls int he Predator ship, Lung was fast at acquiring and gleefully riding his new Cinelli cockpit. I was dying. I prayed he wouldn’t have a similar issue, like opening the box and finding his bars twisted into the shape of a rhombus or something. They weren’t. Gorgeous bars!

So as I mentioned, the bottom end was remaining from Crook 1.0. These were all new parts before ALC, right, so this transformation was to swap out frames, and the top end changes were largely cosmetic, except for the bars. So I kept my wheels, tyres, cranks, pedals, cog, brake… well, new chain, but other than that, same same. For the new stuff, the idea was to have chrome up top, black down below. I could have done all black, but the few green builds I see on the supernet go all black in the components or in one case all silver. So, in keeping with the ‘dipped’ theme of the white on the frame, the top end was dipped silver. Conceptually. Here wee Z is carefully scrutinizing some small gifts for manufacturing errors. That’s a shim set for the Nitto bars (unfortunately a necessity), a star nut and a special awesome Thomson solver stem cap. I used Nitto RB-021 compact bulls on this build, since the road drop necessity of ALC was over. I sourced a sweet silver cross lever directly from Paul Comp, too. Awesome. Same stem and seatpost, both Thomson, just now in silver. I used a shorty stem this time, feeling like going compact would get me into the bulls’ drop position easier. This is still pending final approval, as on the road it may be too close to me in this configuration, putting too much pressure on my arms. The saddle is one of my Brooks, already broken in, and the wrap is elkhide.

Here’s one Lung will like. Once I finally got my crown, I built my own crown race setter. And by built, I mean I had the hardware stoe cut me a big section of 1 1/2" black PVC. Tappity tap tap!
Look at that, saved $100 right there!

To me, the scariest step is cutting the steerer. On Crook 1.0, I left about 5mm extra, ringed with a final spacer above the stem, anticipating needing some height adjustment on ALC as I went. Didn’t end up needing it. Plus, this time, the bars are compact, so the taller the stem, the closer they are. Anyway, measure TWICE cut once, here at chez Wrongrobot.

Setting the star nut is actually kind of fun. Whamma bamma.

Here the bike is ready for wrapping. The Paul lever is installed on the thicker portion of the bars, as far over as possible to minimize cable housing scrape on the sharp curve of the X2 front end. This would be the slowest step, wrapping the bike up (literally) taking me from Friday night after getting back from Lung’s birthday party, through Saturday and into the next evening.

The elkhide is really interesting. It’s stretchier than calf hide, and is more porous, shows more defects. It’s really rad though. I had started with a lighter color that purported to match the Brooks honey color saddle, but was too tan, so i sent that back and got the darker brown, which matched perfectly. I used something close to a baseball glove stitch. I had no experience with this. You use one thick waxed cord with two stubby needles, and work from the stem outward. I’d get three good stitches and then a fail, distracted by my baby hurtling herself off of something or Anne Hathaway on film or whatever. But it wasn’t arduous. Just required time to get right. Go slowly, etc. In practice, on the road the wrap slips a bit as it’s stretchy and you apply so much force with your hands, so it pulled away a bit from the edges where they started, but still good. Will take some miles to settle in. Easily the most gorgeous bar covering I’ve ever had.

And with that, Crook Type 3 was born. We rode Paradise Loop under windy conditions, and it was a dream. I have some adjustments to make, reducing the inchgear down to the more universal 72 from 75, and some messing around with seat and stem position, but overall, love it. LOVE iot.

So that’s the story of how Crook became Crook Type 3 in a post-ALC transformation!

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Related posts:

1. Team Lope Bike Bio: Crook Type 3
2. Bike Build Process Log: Crook – Front End Work
3. Bike Build Process Log: Villain 3.0 – Strippery!

I’ve rarely posted sale items on the site until now, but vy nott!

FSA K-Wing 31.8x40cm 400mm Ergo Carbon Road Handlebar
Shown here with gel padding, a Cane Creek brake lever and a Cane Creek Stoker Lever
$275 as shown, $250 bar only

bars naked:

:::

Thomson Elite Seatpost, Black, 31.8mm
$60

:::

Soma Walker bars with white grips
Chrome-plated Tange Steel
Widths: 48cm
25.4 mm center
130mm drop
65mm reach
$30

Ping me at wrongrobot __at__ thirdraildesignlab __dot__ com

All this can be yours.

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Related posts:

1. Ode to the Thomson Seatpost Reprise
2. Bike Build Process Log: Ye Blacke Death – Bars and Saddles
3. 2010 SOMA rush headbadges are speakin my language

In this brief installment of the Ye Blacke Death build logs, I messed with rings, and installed other things.

My challenge, as I showed Lung over the weekend, was that the bottom bracket spindle that I have on this build is too short. I COULD just get a longer spindle, but what fun is THAT. So I frankenbuilt the drivetrain. I spent a lot of time, too much time, playing with chainrings. I started by pulling the middle and small rings off of the crankset that came ont he old Vista that became wrongBike(tm) but this led to the discovery that the chainring bolts were too long, even with a huge amount of spacers. And, additionally, one was stripped and took some effort to get it out. Then I went after the Campy cranks I had in the shop, pulled the two rings off of those to get at the shorter bolts, to use on the Vista cranks… but once I did so, and installed the assembly on the frame, I discovered the short spindle. So, off came the ring for the third time, and the Campy crank was reassembled, with a single 53 chainring. This went on fine, but the corresponding non-drive crank arm hit the frame. Through experimentation, I found that the Vista’s crank arm didn’t, so now i have a Campy right side and a Vista (Suntour) left side. Done!

i sure know my way around quickly pulling chainrings, between the Miche cranks and now these.

This is the Bobike seat that’s going on the front of Ye Blacke Death, right above the back of the front rack. It’s a trick little system. I MAY get a windshield for it, but we’ll see how that pans out. I set out this past weekend, on a Daddy/Wee Z day, to get some installation done on the project, and my intention was to get fenders, rack and seat up on there. Each gave me problems but I saw what needed to be done to solve them. The seat clamps to the stem, necessitating that tall Nitoo Techntronic stem, but I need to get the rack on first. The rack wants to go on after fenders, of course, so that made fenders the next in line.

I was installing in the carport, as an experiment while the cat was away. I put wee Z in the pack and Tole, and she was good for about an hour, so that was actually pretty AWESOME. It’s not the first time I’ve wrenched with her hanging out: I’ve done a number of projects upstairs on the back desk with her in the sandbox. That requires bringing the stand, the bike parts and all the tools upstairs, which is kind of a pain, so I wanted to try the carport this time.

You can see I got the fenders out, there. These are from Woody’s Fenders. Amazing build quality, hand-crafted goodness. I subsequently got them on the bike. Not complete, though. The rear needs to have an L-bracket drilled into the wood, and the front has a bigger issue: seating a front brake securely on the fork, on which the fender also hangs. I need a longer bolt. So there’s that. But progress all the same. You can kind of see, from this shot, some of how it’s coming together. Lung saw it a little farther along and up close.

Getting closer!

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Related posts:

1. Bike Build Process Log: wrongBike – Effing Crank Bolts!
2. Bike Build Process Log: Ye Blacke Death – Bars and Saddles
3. Bike Build Process Log: Ye Blacke Death – Gamoh Go!

I like this in concept, if not execution.
I personally don’t have much interest in a twin-rod cargo compartment in the front triangle. It’s a windsail, everything you have except for the tool case shown is going to be fatter than needed somewhere in it’s section, and I can think of better places to sandwich a clever cargo compartment. But I DO like that it exists at all, and that they put disc brakes on there, for when you’re mashing away from a bank heist with a case full of gold bars weighing 333 pounds and then have to stop at a crosswalk for a pedestrian.

http://gizmodo.com/5592507/a-bicycle-built-for-tools

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Related posts:

1. Bike Build Process Log: Villain- Yes Brake
2. croozer cargo trailer
3. Bike Build Process Log: Ghostal – Make it Stop!

Villain 3.0 is done!

I have a few adjustments to make, stem and a frayed cable and a few other things, but it’s ridable and ready to go.

To recap,
I started with a Look KG381 Jalabert Edition built-up with Dura Ace, and a Look KG381 Team bike from the 03 tour, converted to fixed gear. I pulled everything off the converted frame (Villain), pulled everything off the Jalabert Edition (JaJa) and set out to build up my road bike from the black frame.

The black frame was undergoing some issues under the strain of fixed-gear conversion… make that big-gear fixed conversion. i was running an 82 inchgear. It was an experiment. But it led to weaknesses in the design of the Miche Bottom Bracket becoming apparent ( no flange, slides in, cranks scrape the frame) and lots of undue torque on the dropouts, which have a 5mm rotational adjustment in them (which largely allowed for my magic gear in the first place.) Certainly the modern crabon frame can handle the torque of a big inchgear… this wasn’t even the biggest combination you’d get out of a standard 53/39 + 12/23, but while the front end of the drivetrain could handle it, the back end could not. Road dropouts just don’t suffer those forces like that normally. So, anyway, the condition of the frame was some nicks and dings in the finish here and there from the previous owner, some crank scrapery from me, and otherwise good to go.

Final build details:

Frame: Look KG381 Team (2003 Season)
Bottom Bracket: Shimano Dura Ace
Crankset: Shimano Dura Ace (53/39)
Pedals: Shimano A520
Wheels: Easton Vista SL, debadged
Tyres: Conti Gatorskin Hardshells 23c
Cassette: SRAM Force (11/27)
Front/Rear Derailleurs: SRAM Force
Brakes: Shimano Dura Ace
Stem: Thomson X2
Bars: Ritchey Carbon Streem
Brifters: SRAM Force
Tape: Shimano vinyl perf
Seatpost: Thomson Elite
Saddle: Brooks Swallow

ping!

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Related posts:

1. Bike Build Process Log: Villain 3.0 – Strippery!
2. Bike Build Process Log: Villain 3.0 – Swappery
3. Bike Build Process Log: Villain

Today, the front half of my new SRAM Force group arrived, and since I had to be home waiting for a Comcast technician, I decided to play around a bit. I didn’t actually intend to get as far as I did, but hey, I’m not complaining!

I stripped off the Dura Ace brifters and trade-boxed them and then studied the SRAM Force brifters for awhile. In a general sense, not much has changed. But boy, the details! SRAM’s Double Tap technology uses one inner lever under the brake to control both up and down shifting. You tap once to shift up, twice to shift down. It’s very cool. I’ve had Campy and Shimano but this is my first SRAM and it’s an interesting design. The brifters are adjustable to account for the different reach positions of riders with different hands, and the brifters also allow the shift cable to run along the inside or outside of the housing, depending on your preference.

Note the two tracks for shifter cable routing.

I decided on routing both cables to the inside track (shifter and brake) on each side, but only after I had previously taped them to be inside/outside. I redid it because I wanted to take better advantage of my bars’ cable valley along the underside.

One lever, two taps! It’s rule no. 2…

The Force brifters went on a lot easier than the Dura Ace brifters came off, I have to say. Granted there was a 13 year gap between the manufacture of these two systems, so I’m sure current DA 7900 brifters are much better. But these feel great and were easy to mount, adjust, set up the cabling etc.

Here I’ve routed the cables the way I wanted… in a Lovecraftian space madness of tentacled terror.

I didn’t intend to get very far, as I said, and didn’t really have an objective when I started today, so I was taking my time and going slow, imperative when exploring something you really don’t have much experience with anyway. Counting moving the DA stuff over format he other frame to this one, that makes… well, one pass at road bike component assembly for me so far. Heh. So yeah, I went slow.

I tried a few different ways to route the cables but settled on allowing them to spring out from the bundle under the bar and just find their best, least hassled paths.

I always tape the cables and the gel tightly before wrapping the bar.

Well, in for a penny, in for a pound, I says. I had a bit more time, so I thought I’d gel and tape the bars in preparation for wrapping them with the real tape later. I also noted a few things I wasn’t expecting, such as the fact that SRAM provides cables, housing, ferrules etc but they pre-size the cabling for you. I wasn’t expecting that, as I’m used to this all being bulk stock and in uniform lengths. So, the left and right brake cables were of different lengths, and of course reversed after I had installed them, so I had to switch them. No big deal, still interesting since you still have to cut each down.

Funny how Shimano is now providing the wrap for the brifter clamp to simulate electritole tape. For those that don’t already USE electritole tape. HA

The Comcast guy finally came and we took care of business really quickly, actually. However, not enough time to shoot back to work and my daughter was on her way back home from her Oma’s house, so I decided to work on this a little more. Wrap one side, I thought. Ok. Note that brake clamp wrap int he photo. Hilarious. Why not just provide some real electritole tape! Side note: I LOVE how you can hang your roll of elctritole tape on the bars ( or on top of your bike stand) as you work.

Oh, SWEET AS I says.

Before I knew it, I was done. That was unexpected! I only had to rewrap once, and for me that’s a record. I love this tape, too.. Took me awhile to find one I liked, since I’ve used Fizik black per on like three bikes in a row, and I hate most other tape. This is a black vinyl tape with perf, and it wrapped great. The perf pattern actually helped with spacing.

Anyway, one side is a bar end blinkie (yes, the car side) and the other, a video game upright button, a la 70s arcades. You may have seen me pull this on Crook as well.

Brakes are strung and adjusted, cables are in place for derailleurs. Seat is on. I’m good to go for the next phase.

Next up: derailleurs and cassette!

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Related posts:

1. Bike Build Process Log: Villain 3.0 – Breakery
2. Bike Build Process Log: Villain 3.0 – Completeds
3. Bike Build Process Log: Villain 3.0 – Hangery

My buddy Dylan over at Tam Bikes is a fast guy. He owns the SF Sprints and he’s a tall, powerful rider. He recently completed his move from his Bianchi Superpista (with the dubious frame crack) to a Cinelli Mash. Dig the Mash stickers on his deeps. Nice work!

Needs a brake, though.

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Related posts:

1. Dylan’s Pista Super Cracker
2. cinelli x MASH limited edition histogram colorway framesets
3. Bike Build Process Log: Crook – Drilled, Comma, Fork!

THIS SHIT WILL NOT STAND…

i’ve been riding some old nitto road drops (see above) since i built this bike, and they’re great, but i’ve always coveted pista track drops. primarily for the purported increase in control, but with the secondary benefit that i think they look sick as fuck. so i snapped up some CINELLI PISTA TRACK DROPS and a CINELLI ROAD STEM a week back and headed down to my shop on saturday morning.

i always try and gather up everything i need before a project and lay it out on my workbench so that i can quickly grab stuff instead of having to reach over onto the pegboard while i’m trying to hold something in place or whatever…

first i stripped off all the shit i wouldn’t need anymore. my old bars and stem, my brake lever shim (the new bars have a 31.8 clamp area, so i didn’t need my shim anymore, thankfully), a spacer that had been on there for WAY too long (even though i committed to my stem height long ago, i never cut my steerer tube cause i’m lazy), and my headset compression bolt (the new stem came with a cinelli cap)…

next, i needed to mark where i needed to cut the steerer tube, as i was FINALLY committing to my stem height, which would allow me to get rid of that unsightly spacer ABOVE my stem. or, as i referred to it, "the angry inch…"

cutting a steerer tube that already has a star nut in it sucks. if the star nut isn’t far enough down, you need to first cut down enough to re-set the nut, then cut down again to the final size, and re-set the nut again. it’s frustrating not only for the cut-smack-repeat process, but also because if you use a pipe-cutter as i do, you have to go SUPER slowly in order to avoid deforming the steerer tube and potentially loosening the star nut’s hold inside. it’s just a drag. but i got it done and mounted the stem…

this stem has an interesting faceplate in that it has TWO faceplates. you can see in this picture, i’ve taken the top bolt out of the viewer’s right-side plate and let it hang down, leaving the viewer’s left-side plate attached…

and here’s the two plates removed completely, so you can see them better…

i’ve never seen anything like it before and it makes the assembly process a bit complicated, IMO. with a single plate, you can move around the 4 bolts in an "X" pattern, tightening the whole plate to the same general tension without even using a torque wrench. but with these individual ones, you have to eyeball it and feel your way through it a lot more and it’s just kind of nerve-wracking when you’re doing so on a $200 cockpit. but once it was done, boy…

i couldn’t be more pleased. i took it for a ride to, around, and from alameda, which included some mellow cruising and some city mashing, and it is amazing. the fatter tubing gives you a much more comfortable purchase on the bars when you’re upright, so even without tape, it feels great in your hands. the pista bend also forces your hands closer to the stem in that same upright position, so you’ve got a little more aggressive and dynamic control over subtle movements at speed. and the drop and reach is similar enough to the road drops that climbing feels no different at all (i climb in the drops on my fixed-gears).

aesthetically, i really don’t need to say much that you can’t see. the cockpit’s finally completely murdered out, which i love, and losing that shim on the brake lever gives a more flush look to the mounting, allowing the lever to really blend in to the rest of the cockpit.

i was lucky to have been riding the nittos just the day before, so i was able to immediately see and feel all the differences that the new setup provided, and they’re great. the weight difference is really only apparent when you pick the bike up, but the increased aggressiveness and control is on lock.

there is a downside, however. this cockpit is high-end, very expensive, and pretty desirable. and it can be completely removed by spinning 3 bolts. if a thief were to cut my brake cable and use a 5mm allen for about 2 minutes, they could have it. having a brake helps deter people (it’s just another thing to have to fuck with, increasing theft time), but it’s not foolproof. i have a few ideas that i’m going to play with, including filling the allen heads with melted wax and wrapping various pieces of electrical tape or bandanas around the branding. but it does make me a lot more nervous about locking it up outside. however, the TRUE solution to that problem is coming in another post. so stay tuned.

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Related posts:

1. cockpit upgrades, 1 of 2
2. Bike Build Process Log: Crook Type 3 Conversion
3. cockpit upgrades, 2 of 2

That’s not ‘break as in brake’ either.

Si I was in the bikeBasement last night and thought to myself: ‘self? The reason you’re having trouble with that front derailleur stringing is that you no longer have something to compare to…’ which was when I remembered wifebot(tm)s sweet, sweet Bianchi hanging back there, so off I went to study her set-up. It’s Campy, and therefore more awesome, but I saw the gist of what I was doing wrong: I was overcomplicating the threading. The pulley is a stop against the frame, not for the cable. So, I strung it and voila, had shift! Except fof where no matter how much tension I gave the cable, I couldn’t get the cage to set over the big ring. It’s two positions were inner ring of the double, and nothing. So, after some consideration, further exploration of limit screws and cable tension, and noting the fraying cables, I decided to err conservatively and bring it into my LBS, Tam Bikes.

Scott helped me see the error of my ways. Well, one of them. We determined that the physical positioning of the derailleur needed to be a bit higher by some 2mm or so (which is double what my book recommended) and then after some more flim-flam, and fresh cables, we, and by we I mean he, got the limits right. I took apart the Dura Ace ST-7700 brake/shifter ‘brifters’ (as per Sheldon) and rethreaded cable for him to use. All seemed well.

Here’s that left side brifter, exposed, rethreaded.

I had total lust for this tool. It’s called the THIRD ARM. It hasd a tension plate so you can hold against the part, while squeezing the plies to create tension against the part itself, freeing your other hand to tighten the allen bolt of the part itself. MAN do I want one.

Unfortunately, defeat was snatched from the jaws of victory. We were struggling to understand why the shifter could be shifted by the cable, manually by hand, but not by the brifter. As it turns out, the brifter is officially horfed. Check that photo out, and the 45 degree pivot of the shifting assembly. Nothing it holding it in place.

So, while the derailleur problem is solved, I have a NEW problem, perhaps more urgent. Replacing a 12-year old, top of the line Dura Ace brifter. So, that’s where we are. Worst case scenario? I’ll ride the Team Lope Tour de Lung with one ring. BOOM!

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Related posts:

1. Bike Build Process Log: Villain 3.0 – Cockpitery!
2. Bike Build Process Log: Villain- Yes Brake
3. Bike Build Process Log: Villain 3.0 – Hangery

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