Crook Type 3 is a transformed version of Crook, the Cinelli Mash I built up and rode on Aids Lifecycle 9, from SF to LA. The concept was simple, and absurd: after completing the 570 mile ride (if successful, which it was) I would swap out the gray frame that made that journey for the limited edition green/ white variant, celebrating the achievement. You can read about the build process for Crook Type 3 here. Suffice to say, I kept the bottom end from the original Crook, and replaced the top end, going with a silver dip theme above the frame line.

Cinelli Mash 09 Limited Edition Green/White Adidas-inspired variant
SRAM Courier 300 Cranks (48/165)
Shimano A520 pedals
Custom wheelset: Soma hubs laced to H+Son 43s
Sugino Track Cog system (17) (Currently 75 inchgear)
SRAM single chain
Dia Compe brake/ carbon fiber cable housing
Paul Comp cross lever, silver
Titanium spacers
Columbus headset and seatpost clamp
Thomson Elite post, silver
Thomson X2 stem, silver
Nitto RB-021 compact bullhorns
VO elkhide wrap
crankbolt wrap caps (!)
Brooks Swallow saddle, honey
Thomson stem cap
Continental Gatorskin Hardshells 25c
Awesomeness

Here’s the build in the wild…

Note the Paul Comp cross lever. That was a hard find, with a deceptively simple solution: Order direct from Paul Comp…
The elkhide is still stretching and getting comfy but it’s gorgeous. I miss gel padding, though. Crank bolts for bar ends. HA!

The gold hub works nicely with the color scheme, which was fortuitous. I’ll eventually have a brass bell on the front end too.

Sneaky inclusion of my Three-Pin rider logo under the chainring, for science.

On Crook 1.0 there was a quote here: ‘by hook or by crook’ which was my inspirational mantra for getting through ALC on a fixed-gear. Now that that was done, I elected to retire it, moving the bike name from the head tube to the usual position here. The cog decal moved from seatpost to seat stay. Oh, and there will be a pinup girl on the nose, it’s just not done. The other missing decals are a Type 3 lettering piece for the name, and a vinyl of our ALC logo used on our ride shirts.

Some adjustments will follow, in seat height and stem. But so far, it’s a greeeaaaaat rahde!

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Related posts:

1. Bike Build Process Log: Crook Type 3 Conversion
2. Team Lope Bike Bio: Crook
3. Friends of Team Lope: Team Hype out of LA

As you have seen from previous posts, Crook was my Cinelli Mash fixie build, which had an expressed purpose: it was my ride for Aids Lifecycle. When I bought and built it, my vision was just to build the fixie I could do the MOST on… the longest days, the best climbs, the most agility, etc. So, it was done up with road drops, ridden for a few months before the ride (about 400 miles) and then on ALC 9 from SF to LA (another 570 miles)…

But something changed, along that preparation period before ALC. I found my initial rejection of the green limited edition version of this frame turning from dislike to interest. I couldn’t shake it. And then I had the idea: ride the gray ghost to LA, then have a metamorphosis to the green. So I took a risk on the green frame, site unseen, and ordered it before I left.

My initial plan was to come home, strip the bike, assemble the new one, then ride up to the city and meet Lung later that week with the surprise build. I had kept my plan a secret. The frame was shipped to my office while we were on the ride. All was well.

Until I got it home the day after we returned. The frame itself was gorgeous. The color is indescribable, and no pics do it justice. But the fork had carbon damage at the crown, painted over by the factory. Unacceptable! So I had to wait several weeks to get this resolved through my guys at City Grounds (zack is awesome, I say) and an understaffed Cinelli US crew. Ultimately, I got the replacement fork, and discovered the crown race was missing. We got that sorted, and I received the race in the mail last Friday, just in time to finish the build before Lung would arrive that Sunday for a birthday ride. The build was done from the back forward, but the front end was waiting on that race.

The ride is a dream, and you can see the Bio of the bike here.

Below are my process pics from the conversion, which involved using the original Crook bottom end, and a new top end.

:::

Unfortunately, the photos of the frame unboxing and the back end assembly were largely lost to a bad SD card. However, imagine me pulling a brilliant frame from the box and squeeing. The green is this iridescent color… not quite flaked, but shimmery. And more importantly, it’s a warm green, not a cold green. It’s paired with a creamy opaque white, a look I’ve always loved, going back to my one-time plans to white-paint-dip a stained-wood raw coffee table top for a project years ago. I love that look.

First, the original Crook was stripped to the bones, for sale to a fellow who was heading to San Diego fixed in a pursuit of folly similar to our fixed-gear Aids Lifecycle endeavors. How’s THAT for synchronicity! Last shot of Crook 1.0′s frame.

While waiting for the fork situation to be resolved, I dragged everything up to the deck for the extrusion shot (using the damaged fork, because hey.) and then decided to do the back end build work up there, while simultaneously BBQing and hanging out with wee Z. Here’s proof.

Here’s a close-up of that damage to the fork. Not a MASSIVE deal, but the concern I had was two-fold: one, the top surface of the crown is unpainted, so it’s visible in the gap between the frame and fork. This would be more obvious as a result. And two, it’s not like it was a sealed defect. That’s the EDGE of the paint. It’ll fray.

That was never fully resolved at the time of this writing. My boys at City Grounds took up the effort in dealing with Cinelli on that front, as weeks had gone by without any fruitful response from the manufacturer. It will be an argument over manufacturing damage vs shop damage. I believe manufacturing. In the meantime, as these weeks went by, my Crook parts hanging on the bikeBasement pegboards like those trophy skulls int he Predator ship, Lung was fast at acquiring and gleefully riding his new Cinelli cockpit. I was dying. I prayed he wouldn’t have a similar issue, like opening the box and finding his bars twisted into the shape of a rhombus or something. They weren’t. Gorgeous bars!

So as I mentioned, the bottom end was remaining from Crook 1.0. These were all new parts before ALC, right, so this transformation was to swap out frames, and the top end changes were largely cosmetic, except for the bars. So I kept my wheels, tyres, cranks, pedals, cog, brake… well, new chain, but other than that, same same. For the new stuff, the idea was to have chrome up top, black down below. I could have done all black, but the few green builds I see on the supernet go all black in the components or in one case all silver. So, in keeping with the ‘dipped’ theme of the white on the frame, the top end was dipped silver. Conceptually. Here wee Z is carefully scrutinizing some small gifts for manufacturing errors. That’s a shim set for the Nitto bars (unfortunately a necessity), a star nut and a special awesome Thomson solver stem cap. I used Nitto RB-021 compact bulls on this build, since the road drop necessity of ALC was over. I sourced a sweet silver cross lever directly from Paul Comp, too. Awesome. Same stem and seatpost, both Thomson, just now in silver. I used a shorty stem this time, feeling like going compact would get me into the bulls’ drop position easier. This is still pending final approval, as on the road it may be too close to me in this configuration, putting too much pressure on my arms. The saddle is one of my Brooks, already broken in, and the wrap is elkhide.

Here’s one Lung will like. Once I finally got my crown, I built my own crown race setter. And by built, I mean I had the hardware stoe cut me a big section of 1 1/2" black PVC. Tappity tap tap!
Look at that, saved $100 right there!

To me, the scariest step is cutting the steerer. On Crook 1.0, I left about 5mm extra, ringed with a final spacer above the stem, anticipating needing some height adjustment on ALC as I went. Didn’t end up needing it. Plus, this time, the bars are compact, so the taller the stem, the closer they are. Anyway, measure TWICE cut once, here at chez Wrongrobot.

Setting the star nut is actually kind of fun. Whamma bamma.

Here the bike is ready for wrapping. The Paul lever is installed on the thicker portion of the bars, as far over as possible to minimize cable housing scrape on the sharp curve of the X2 front end. This would be the slowest step, wrapping the bike up (literally) taking me from Friday night after getting back from Lung’s birthday party, through Saturday and into the next evening.

The elkhide is really interesting. It’s stretchier than calf hide, and is more porous, shows more defects. It’s really rad though. I had started with a lighter color that purported to match the Brooks honey color saddle, but was too tan, so i sent that back and got the darker brown, which matched perfectly. I used something close to a baseball glove stitch. I had no experience with this. You use one thick waxed cord with two stubby needles, and work from the stem outward. I’d get three good stitches and then a fail, distracted by my baby hurtling herself off of something or Anne Hathaway on film or whatever. But it wasn’t arduous. Just required time to get right. Go slowly, etc. In practice, on the road the wrap slips a bit as it’s stretchy and you apply so much force with your hands, so it pulled away a bit from the edges where they started, but still good. Will take some miles to settle in. Easily the most gorgeous bar covering I’ve ever had.

And with that, Crook Type 3 was born. We rode Paradise Loop under windy conditions, and it was a dream. I have some adjustments to make, reducing the inchgear down to the more universal 72 from 75, and some messing around with seat and stem position, but overall, love it. LOVE iot.

So that’s the story of how Crook became Crook Type 3 in a post-ALC transformation!

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Related posts:

1. Team Lope Bike Bio: Crook Type 3
2. Bike Build Process Log: Crook – Front End Work
3. Bike Build Process Log: Villain 3.0 – Strippery!

In this brief installment of the Ye Blacke Death build logs, I messed with rings, and installed other things.

My challenge, as I showed Lung over the weekend, was that the bottom bracket spindle that I have on this build is too short. I COULD just get a longer spindle, but what fun is THAT. So I frankenbuilt the drivetrain. I spent a lot of time, too much time, playing with chainrings. I started by pulling the middle and small rings off of the crankset that came ont he old Vista that became wrongBike(tm) but this led to the discovery that the chainring bolts were too long, even with a huge amount of spacers. And, additionally, one was stripped and took some effort to get it out. Then I went after the Campy cranks I had in the shop, pulled the two rings off of those to get at the shorter bolts, to use on the Vista cranks… but once I did so, and installed the assembly on the frame, I discovered the short spindle. So, off came the ring for the third time, and the Campy crank was reassembled, with a single 53 chainring. This went on fine, but the corresponding non-drive crank arm hit the frame. Through experimentation, I found that the Vista’s crank arm didn’t, so now i have a Campy right side and a Vista (Suntour) left side. Done!

i sure know my way around quickly pulling chainrings, between the Miche cranks and now these.

This is the Bobike seat that’s going on the front of Ye Blacke Death, right above the back of the front rack. It’s a trick little system. I MAY get a windshield for it, but we’ll see how that pans out. I set out this past weekend, on a Daddy/Wee Z day, to get some installation done on the project, and my intention was to get fenders, rack and seat up on there. Each gave me problems but I saw what needed to be done to solve them. The seat clamps to the stem, necessitating that tall Nitoo Techntronic stem, but I need to get the rack on first. The rack wants to go on after fenders, of course, so that made fenders the next in line.

I was installing in the carport, as an experiment while the cat was away. I put wee Z in the pack and Tole, and she was good for about an hour, so that was actually pretty AWESOME. It’s not the first time I’ve wrenched with her hanging out: I’ve done a number of projects upstairs on the back desk with her in the sandbox. That requires bringing the stand, the bike parts and all the tools upstairs, which is kind of a pain, so I wanted to try the carport this time.

You can see I got the fenders out, there. These are from Woody’s Fenders. Amazing build quality, hand-crafted goodness. I subsequently got them on the bike. Not complete, though. The rear needs to have an L-bracket drilled into the wood, and the front has a bigger issue: seating a front brake securely on the fork, on which the fender also hangs. I need a longer bolt. So there’s that. But progress all the same. You can kind of see, from this shot, some of how it’s coming together. Lung saw it a little farther along and up close.

Getting closer!

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Related posts:

1. Bike Build Process Log: wrongBike – Effing Crank Bolts!
2. Bike Build Process Log: Ye Blacke Death – Bars and Saddles
3. Bike Build Process Log: Ye Blacke Death – Gamoh Go!

THIS is marketed as a "polo" fork, but all it amounts to is a fork with a 120mm spacing. apparently, it gives polo guys another two options for gearing. but what i love about it is that it gives ANY rider another two options for gearing. let’s say, oh, i dunno, you’re riding your fixed gear bike to, let’s say, los angeles. and you don’t wanna suffer up any monster climbs or blow out your knees on any monster descents. but you ALSO don’t wanna have to pack a chainwhip and lockring wrench. boom. using two fixed/fixed rear wheels, you could have a total of 4 different gears to choose from. mashing a flat century? roll big. climbing all day? roll low. the possibilities are really very far-reaching. one fixed/fixed and one fixed/free would give you three fixed choices and a freewheel for if you get injured. a fixed/fixed and free/free would give you essentially two different bikes, each with two different gearings. it’s pretty goddamn cool, if you ask me. heavy, though. and that’s before you put a wheel in it.

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1. milwaukee bike polo crew arrested for playing bike polo
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This one’s new…
Jenaye, an Australian contributor to Candycranks, suffered a chain drop on her fixie as she approached a huge truck turning in front of her. While she averted greater harm, her foot was run over by the truck’s rearmost wheel. To her surprise, while she DID suffer tissue damage etc, the bones were not crushed and after three weeks of crutches, she’s back on the bike.

Now, what saved her digits from doom? The hard sole of her clip-in shoe.

AWESOME!

Get well, Jenaye. Get clip-ins, the rest of you.

More pics here:
http://www.candycranks.com/archives/9575

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So last night I got home from work an hour early and hurtled myself into the bikeBasement(tm), head first, through three partitions and a large timber column. I was THAT motivated.

Drivetrain upgrade time!

So, I started by pulling all the Dura Ace parts off that I was replacing. It’s kind of cool to see both the changes in design philosophy over time, and the differences in problem-solving, especially in the rear derailleur design (I’ll do my best to avoid what happened to Andy Schleck, of course*).

As I was pulling the 9-speed cassette off of my wheel, I discovered I was missing a familiar-looking tool: The Park FR-5 rear cassette tool, which looks similar to a bottom bracket tool I have (well two) but wasn’t quite the same. This is where having a bike shop in Tam Junction comes in handy. I was able to get that tool and back to the basement in about 15 minutes.

Next up, moving cassettes. As you’ve seen from Lung’s videos on the subject (or will, once they are broadcast) modern cassettes come in a combination of single and group pieces. The larger three or four cogs, depending on the manufacturer, are carved out of a single piece of metal, in my case titanium, and then the remainder are single cogs with spacers. They have a specific groove design in the center and fit the hub body a specific way. There’s compatibility issues all over the place, but not for me: while the Dura Ace groupo I pulled would normally suggest incompatibility of my hub with this new cassette, in my case I got lucky, because the wheel I was using was not my ORIGINAL wheel, but a newer one retrofitted to use the 9-speed cassette. I had owned a Cervelo Soloist with a modern 10-speed Ultegra groupo on it (2006) and swapped it for this 9-speed Dura Ace from 97… I had used a spacer and adapter to make the hub work. So now, I was golden for using this new SRAM cassette. Nice! That doesn’t often happen to me…

The cassette comes on a plastic speedloader, much like the ballistic version of same concept. In my case, because of the gears I selected, I had to modify the speedloader configuration, but once I was ready, line up the grooves, slip slip and boom, ALL on. It’s interesting to see the newer cogs and their guide teeth with angled faces. Anyway, quick snap, we were good to go and get back on the bike.

Adjusted the rear derailleur, ran the cable (now the cable housing swings wide up and over the stays) and same with front, swapped out for my new 10-speed chain (swapped out my new 9-speed chain, mind you, grrrr) and set everything, and boom!

Next up, final adjustments. I spent another hour this morning trying to adjust the index shifting with little success. I’m going for expert help…

*If you haven’t seen the footage, Schleck’s chain popped off on his acceleration up the climb in the pivotal moment of yesterday’s stage. There’s lots of controversy about attacking vs. waiting and all this other stuff, but I was more interested in what happened mechanically, as I always am when pratfalls occur in the tour with these guys. They have the best mechanics out there and the best equipment, but the wrenching is happening fast, and sometimes things aren’t adjusted, sometimes parts fail, and sometimes riders err. I’m always curious what it was. In this case, we don’t really know but there’s a good chance Schleck jumped the chain on a heavy shift. The nature of SRAM derailleur design led to the chain drop. IF that’s what happened…

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Related posts:

1. Bike Build Process Log: Villain 3.0 – Upgradery
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The perils of cascading upgrades aren’t new in bikery. You change one thing, and it requires another thing, and another thing. Then a third thing doesn’t fit, and you upgrade that, and so on. Often, this happens piecemeal and it can be frustrating, when you were simply trying to solve a small issue, and created a big one as a result. Sometimes, you have the big picture in front of you, and can plan accordingly. SOMETIMES.

So, as per my last post, one of my Dura Ace ST-7700 brifters exploded. This put me in a pickle. Dura Ace retired the 9-speed 7700 in 97, as they brought in the new design thereafter. NOS are virtually impossible to find. I tracked four ebay sellers for the 7700 shifters used, and each auction creeped above $250. So, while I was trying to sort this out, it occurred to me, maybe one can buck Shimano’s groupo-complete upgrade path and work out a partial upgrade. And so my supernet research began.

My first objective was to replace the broken brifter, of course, and the next year’s model, the 7800, offered some improvements in design. They shift smoother, require less effort, and are more ergonomic in design. However, these are 10-spd shifters, incompatible with the Dura Ace 9-spd (if you sniff out my nostalgia for Campy, you’re correct) due to a much shorter index, and as a result, would require other upgrades. However, as I read up on it, it appears that by upgrading cassette and chain, you can get away with keeping your derailleurs as is (with some further adjustments.)

So, what the hell, I says, let’s take a look. And lo, I was able to score some aesthetically challenged but mechanically sound 7800 brifters for the same price as the 7700s. So, then I found a 7800 cassette slashed to $99 from $299, and decided to go for it. I don’t really need 10-speeds in back, but I liked the idea of more ergonomic shifters, and certainly NEWER ones. Replacing older technology with more old technology was a bit iffy. With the 7800 on, Shimano designed for more uniform compatibility. That seemed to suggest that by coming up to 7800, I’d be in better straits for future needs as may occur. And I have to admit, the 7700 brifters weren’t the most comfortable (especially given their top-of-the-line Dura Ace status)…

So, I scored these:

Then got this, and another SRAM chain:

So, more money than I wanted to spend right now, but hopefully I’ll be better off for it, and perhaps can recoup a bit when selling off the remaining functional 7700 lever and the old cassette.

He says with great confidence.

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1. Bike Build Process Log: Villain 3.0 – SRAMery
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3. Bike Build Process Log: Villain 3.0 – Cockpitery!

So, I originally thought I would just post some pics of my new bar/stem monocoque setup and pedals but I think an explanation and history of my mechanical issues I have been dealing with should be included.

Wrong can attest to the fact that I am extremely lucky and very anal when it comes to upkeep on my bike which has resulted in that I have had very few mechanical issues, knock on wood, but I guess 2 years seems about right. Anyway, everything pretty much started in the past month and a half with an annoying clicking in my right standard carbon/ti look keo pedal that was probably just because the pedal needed a little tlc (actually I know that it just needed some lube). The thing is that I had just read an article about the Keo blades and knew that I had to have them, PERFECT TIMING! I saw the American price of 500 bucks and scoffed but luckily the Europeans have a much more normal pricing structure of more than half that so… here’s the pic of my sweet ass blades.

Next couple things didn’t result in any new purchases but were really annoying. I found that every time I climbed there would be a pinging in my rear Ksyrium ES wheel which I couldn’t figure out what it was for 2 rides (wheel was perfectly true) but I eventually found it was a couple of loose spokes. Fixed. Then I went on nice casual ride with the intention of doing an Alpine until a fellow rider was right aside me when her chain fell off, she swerved, and banged my rear dérailleur. It folded and went banging against my spokes and made some mild scratches… not as bad as I thought it was going to be… but I managed to barely bend the metal hanger back in place. You know when you bend aluminum to the brink of collapse, well that’s where it was. I made it home okay without changing any rear gears, not that big a deal for you fixie folks but difficult when you have muscle memory and the gear shifter right there taunting you to be used. No shops had replacements but I found 1 online and had it shipped to me. This was a weekend I really wanted to ride so I decided to take out my 19 year old race bike, Tesch.

Can I just tell you that it was an awesome ride! I loved it. The fit was perfect and aggressive and made me realize that my Look wasn’t set up right at all. That’s where new bars and stem came into play. I already had carbon bars and stem so I knew I wanted to stick with that and after doing a ton of research I found these FSA integrated bars and knew I had to have them. So here they are…

I didn’t put the tape on the top portion and they are still super comfy and they are incredibly stiff…. LOVE IT! 2nd ride out and I am descending from an Alpine run (again with the Alpine, I gotta stop doing this ride) and my rear wheel squeels and seizes. This is not a particularly good feeling when going as fast as you can down a hill, in fact it was down right terrifying. I thought at first it was the brakes… nope… then I realized it was the freehub and it only did this when not pedaling. So, again I had to descend without stopping pedaling. Anyway, I came home and found out that it is the easiest piece in the world to repair, go Mavic, and my bike is again ready for the road.

So, there you go… More than you would ever want to know. You guys ready for a ride?

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After Aids Lifecycle, I did a moderate overhaul, ie. drivetrain cleanup and brake inspection, and a surface cleaning of the bike, to return it to it’s former shiny self. Gorgeous I says!

I still quite like the ‘Crook’ placement above the Mash crest. That worked out nicely with the die- cut vinyl.

Here’s a shot of the Team Lope crest on the downtube. Kind of a subtle place for it, I think.

One noticeable scar from the road: a rock chip on the wheelstay. I think this was probably from when one of those pacelines passed in the middle of traffic at 40mph sending us into the gravel. You guys were really fast and cool and stuff.

Here’s that scrape from the chainring moving back up IN there. Fortunately, it’s an aluminum frame so no worries. And on close inspection, many of my bikes have this scrape, either from the chainring or a chain scrape along the way. Badge of honor…

There’s that Three-Pin name plate, along with a shot of the bike’s signature quote:

"By hook or by crook"

What’s really cool is that on the opposite side the lettering is partially worn off as if from age. Gives it some flavor.

That sweet cog reflector sticker. Nice touch on the black seatpost.

Ah, Crook. Ya done me well.

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This is another inchgear calculator app. Now, I like mine just fine, and it’s quite powerful. No disputing this one is aesthetically pleasing, though, no doubt.

However, I love the copy:

"How many inches are you pushing?

We’ve all been there. The dude/t isn’t taking the hint despite the fact that you’ve used "interesting", "stock" and "just like the manufacturer made it" to describe the bike in question. You suspect that the tiny chainring and huge cog yield some wimpy drivetrain, and in the days before Chainvetica you couldn’t be sure. Now you can.

Chainvetica does the math your PBR addled brain cannot. Given the tooth count of your chainring and cog, it calculates gear inches — an ancient formula designed to sum up just how hard it’s going to be turn over the cranks on your fixed gear. The more inches you’re running, the harder it is to push. Use it to pick your cog. Use it to quantify the power of your massive quads.

As an added bonus, Chainvetica also calculates your speed at a cadence of 90 rpm. Your skinny jeans will make 90 rpm exactly "as fast as you can pedal" so basically, this app also calculates your ride’s top speed without all the bourgeois cables and stuff.

All this functionality presented on a bed of orange and Helvetica. Good stuff.

(Does this work with SS mountain bikes? 27c tires? 650c wheels? Kilometers per hour? First of all: yuck. Secondly, we’re working on that.)"

Dude, if I were a hipster urban cyclist with an iPhone, I’d be like ‘Sweet! Wait. What?’

Piss being taken WHILE item being sold!
ha

http://itunes.apple.com/us/app/chainvet … 6126?mt=8#

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